I have a 1986 Corvette (automatic) that has a starting problem. When it doesn't start, all the dash lights turn on and that's it. I then have to pull the key out for five minutes and wait. It always starts then. I've read it could be a vats issue (vehicle anti-theft system). I made a new key, and a local dealer had the car a day and it always started so they could not diagnose it. They also said to change the computer and ignition switch (cost around $1,000). Is there an easy way to test this or could a resistor bypass do the trick? It's embarrassing when I get stuck and have to wait the five minutes all the time. Thanks. Ray, via e-mail
It's most likely the problem is with the resistor wire connection integral to the ignition switch. It's really not a big job. If you don't want to go this route, there is, however, a way of bypassing the system, but for legal reasons of course I can't go into detail in this column. If you do go for the new ignition switch because of the broken wire, a GM scanner will help to complete the job of training your keys. There is another way of doing this job that is very time consuming, but possible.
I have a 2008 Mazda CX9 with the factory trailer-towing option. My trailer had a short in it, and as a result the fuse (I believe) blew on the car. I looked in the owner's manual and could not find the location. I then brought it to the dealer and was surprised that they could not find it either. They said they would get back to me but two weeks later, no word. I am surprised it has gotten to this level of investigation. Can you take a look into it? Cleaning guy, via e-mail
This is pretty straight forward, I don't understand the mystery. The fuse box is located inside the glove box. It's fuse No. 17, a 10-amp fuse. That's all there is to it. Be cautious however, there are two fuse boxes in the glove compartment. Make sure you're in the right one.
I had the same problems that David wrote to you about on his Taurus. I banged my head for two years trying to solve this problem. I brought it to my nearby Ford dealer, who wanted $975 to replace the heater core. I knew it wasn't that. I had back-flushed it three times, already plus changed the thermostat, checked all hoses and the blend doors worked fine. Well, I finally went to the Internet and typed in "1999 Ford Taurus heating problems" on a search engine, and guess what, page after page of answers. Ford knew all along they had a problem with corrosive anti freeze that ate away the impeller on the water pump, so they put in a bypass hose to keep the engine from overheating and have been ripping people off for years by replacing heater cores. I took my water pump out and found that there wasn't anything left to it. I replaced it and the heat is great. Please advise David to replace the water pump before getting ripped off by Ford. Glenn from Haverhill.
Glenn, I am on the same page as you with this, however, if you have heat only in certain modes, you have to take a look at the blend door actuators. In most cases the engine temp will be all over the place when the impeller is rotted out.
Car Care Tip: Even if your car has the new antifreeze, this technician recommends you don't go more than three years on the "permanent" antifreeze and two years for all others.
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Larry Rubenstein is a master technician who owns a North Shore service station. His column appears Sunday in WheelsNorth. Write to Larry c/o Sunday North, 100 Turnpike St., North Andover, MA 01845, or send e-mail to scanauto@aol.com.
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