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Photos


Clarksdale, Miss.: Robert "Wolfman" Belfour performs at Red's Lounge in Clarksdale, Miss. Red's is one of the few remaining authentic juke joints in Clarksdale. It was in the juke joints of the Mississippi Delta that the blues were nurtured. They were traditionally basic shacks where plantation workers would gather on the weekend to play music and dance.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


Memphis: Radford Ellis, three-time world champion Elvis impersonator, performs at Club 152 on Beale Street in Memphis. As a teenager, the real Elvis Presley used to hang out with blues great B. B. King and other black musicians who gathered on Beale Street. They influenced his astounding musical career.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


Memphis: Chris Stetson of Eugene, Ore., poses for his wife with the mic used by such legends as Elvis Presley, Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash and Jerry Lee Lewis in the Sun Studio in Memphis. The acoustic ceiling tiles are the originals installed by Sun founder Sam Phillips.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


Helena, Ark: K.M. Williams plays guitar and sings at the King Biscuit Blues Festival in Helena, Ark. The annual festival is named in honor of the first radio program to broadcast blues music including local blues legend Sonny Boy Williamson.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


Hannibal: L.A. Suess performs aboard the Mark Twain Riverboat in Hannibal, Mo.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


New Orleans: Jazz musician Henry Swanson has posted signs for the tourists he says come looking at Hurricane Katrina's destruction in his neighborhood. Swanson said the neighborhood used to be busy with activity and musicians including marching bands but only a handful of residents remain. "People feel bruised, rejected and uncared for," said Swanson.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


New Orleans: The Uptown Strutters perform on the street outside K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen in the French Quarter of New Orleans. Life has mostly returned to normal in the French Quarter since Hurricane Katrina. From left are Woody Benouilh, Brian Lewis and Bill Robeson.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


New Orleans: Records and compact discs are piled among the debris of a house in the Lower Ninth Ward in New Orleans. Many valuable and historic music collections were destroyed by flood waters after the levees broke in New Orleans.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


New Orleans: John Badenhop of California cuts a board at the Habitat for Humanity Musicians' Village in the Upper Ninth Ward of New Orleans. The nonprofit is building 81 homes there and has plans for 200-300 more homes in the surrounding neighborhoods many of which are saved for musicians.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


New Orleans: Ellis Marsalis, 72, still performs every Friday night at Snug Harbor on Frenchmen Street in New Orleans. His style of jazz was called modern and avant-garde in the 1940s but Marsalis isn't into labels for his music. "I never define jazz. It's like trying to define America," said Marsalis. "It's like a gumbo."
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


New Orleans: Glen Andrews plays his trombone for tourists on Bourbon Street. "I'm just trying to bring back the spirit and essence of this city by playing music. It's the only thing I can do."
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


Mark Twain's statue in the Mark Twain Boyhood Home and Museum in Hannibal, Mo. Samuel Clemens, who wrote under the pen name Mark Twain, grew up in Hannibal and based his more famous characters on people he knew there.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


Henri Smith, a native of New Orleans, has been living in Gloucester, Mass., since Hurricane Katrina forced him to flee. He says he misses his hometown but has been picking up gigs regularly. Smith is seen here at the Firehouse Center in Marlborough, Mass., where he was performing with Charles Neville of the Neville Brothers who also has relocated from New Orleans to Massachusetts.
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)


Henry Sweets, curator of the Mark Twain Boyhood Home and Museum in Hannibal, Mo., says Twain’s experiences growing up and working on the river enabled him to bring the reader to the Mississippi. "The culture, the people, the activities were all ingrained in him.”
(Mike Dean / Mike Dean/CNHI News Service)

Published: March 27, 2007 02:41 pm    print this story   email this story  

Mighty Mississippi: River of songs and stories

By Mike Dean
CNHI News Service

L. A. Suess leans back on the riverboat Mark Twain, crosses his right leg over his left, and takes his audience quickly back in time with the sweet, synchronized sounds of banjo and harmonica.

It has the feel of a scene from Show Boat, the long-running Broadway hit, but it is another entertaining day of music and tall tales on the chocolate waters of the Mississippi River.

“Music reflects the history and the culture of the river,” said Suess, who has plied the Mississippi for years. “People still have an appreciation for old country stuff, for folk music.”

Especially in Hannibal, Mo., where the Twain is docked and where author Samuel Clemens got his inspiration for characters like Tom Sawyer, Huck Finn, Pudd’nhead Wilson and Becky Thatcher.

Clemens, who wrote under the pen name Mark Twain, spent his early years in Hannibal, the son of a justice of the peace. His boyhood home is now a National Historic Landmark, and a museum charts his storybook background, much of which is tied to the Mississippi.

It was the lure of the river that drew a young Clemens away from his familial surroundings, including a stint as a printer, and into the adventuresome career of a riverboat pilot. Eventually, of course, he became one of the 19th century’s best-known novelists and humorists.

“When I find a well-drawn character in fiction or biography, I generally take a warm personal interest in him,” wrote Clemens in Life on the Mississippi. “For the reason that I have known him before – met him on the river.”

If Mark Twain’s tales and satire defined the rascals and river rats of the steamboat era, music described the hardscrabble reality of toting barges and lifting bales of cotton.

Folk, blues, soul, gospel, jazz and rock ‘n’ roll connect the dots between cultures and people along the lower Mississippi in places like St. Louis, Memphis, Clarksdale and New Orleans.

Memphis stands out. It is known as the birthplace of rock and roll as well as the home of the blues. It also helped plant soul and gospel music in the American conscience.

Elvis Presley is the best known local icon, but there were many others who made it big through the recorded sounds of Sun Records, the Memphis-based music studio known for discovering American idols long before the popular television show.

Johnny Cash, Ike Turner, Carl Perkins, B. B. King and Rufus Thomas, to name a few, trace their success to Memphis and the blending of blues, gospel and country.

Chuck Porter, an official at the Rock ‘N’ Soul Museum in Memphis, called it the “Memphis thang,” a unique backbeat sound often heard in songs of the river.

“It’s a sound that can be hard to learn to play,” said Porter. “It’s not something that somebody teaches you overnight. You need to get down and play.”

The acoustics at the Sun studio help. It features the original hard tiles installed personally by founder Sam Phillips in 1950. No recording facility has been able to duplicate the distinctive background noise.



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