EagleTribune.com, North Andover, MA


September 29, 2013

Moosewood wears maturity well Cookbook turns 40 with a sophisticated take on vegetarian living


“The first recipe I ever cooked was from Moosewood,” says Dana Cowin, editor-in-chief of Food & Wine magazine, who was a college student in the early 1980s. “It was all part of a scene. And it really introduced cooking to so many people who were young and had never cooked and that lifestyle really spoke to them.”

Though Katzen has been gone from Moosewood for more than 30 years, she may still be its best-known voice. The cover of her new cookbook, “The Heart of the Plate” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013), proudly touts her as “author of ‘Moosewood Cookbook.’”

Which only speaks to the strength of the brand. Moosewood has survived an onslaught of gluten-free upstarts and celebrity vegans to emerge as a quiet stalwart of the movement it helped launch. That credibility, according to many food world observers, provides the foundation of its past — and future — success.

“As more people are trying to eat more and more vegetables, and reducing the amount of meat, some of the old school veg heads have found a new audience that finds their approach credible,” says Joe Yonan, Washington Post food editor and author of “Eat Your Vegetables” (Ten Speed Press, 2013).

“Because it’s not based in any fashion. It’s just an honest approach to cooking that comes from a pretty rich background and lot of years in the kitchen,” he says. “It’s not a gluten-free cake pops in the slow cooker.”


Start to finish: 1 hour (30 minutes active)

Servings: 6

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 cups chopped yellow onions

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon peeled and grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon Thai red curry paste, or more to taste

2 1/2-pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded and chopped (about 6 cups)

3 cups water

1 lime

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

2 cups baby spinach, cut into chiffonade

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