EagleTribune.com, North Andover, MA

Lifestyle

April 1, 2007

Ditch 'the uniform': Simple steps to help men break out of the daily fashion rut

It's Friday morning and you're heading to your office that went casual years ago. What to wear? A button-down shirt and khakis.

It's Saturday night and you're going out to dinner with your family. What to wear? A button-down shirt and khakis.

It's Sunday afternoon and you're heading over to your in-laws' house. What to wear? A button-down shirt and khakis.

"Men are creatures of habit," said Joel Kapelson, an owner of Kaps Menswear in Andover. "They wear what's in their comfort zone. But even within the uniform, no matter if it's dressy or casual, there still needs to be some individuality."

Ah yes, the uniform. It seems that some men have no qualms about wearing the exact same outfit - regardless of the circumstances - day in and day out. Some men have 15 white shirts and pairs of black pants that they rotate throughout the month. Other men will wear a host of hues, but absolutely no patterns. Others shop almost exclusively at one store, buying the same pair of pants and button-down shirt over and over again, just in different colors and patterns.

They don't even try them on.

"It seems that in 1975 there was a mass 'guy memo' that went out and outlined what was acceptable and expected as a dress code," said Aaron Marino, a men's image consultant in Boston.

Men who are thinking about breaking out of their usual uniform, or who have people in their lives begging them to wear something different, should start off slowly, taking baby fashion steps. Add a new color. Try a pair of jeans instead of khakis. You don't need to do a 180, Marino noted.

Bradford native Gary Crago, 56, had that virtual guy memo in hand during his first trip in 1979 to the old Kaps store in Lawrence. He was very conservative in the cut and color of his wardrobe, which by and large consisted of gray pants, white shirts and blue jackets. In the decades since, he has gone to Kaps for fashion advice and modernized his look. Case in point: He recently made the important transition from pleated pants to no pleats.

"I've taken baby steps to progress up to this," said Crago, while wearing a modern version of his 1970s uniform: an olive, flat-front pant, with a crisp white shirt and navy jacket. "I bought my first Italian suit in 1988. It took me 10 years to get there, but I did. I do have to say, when I (recently) tried on a Dolce & Gabbana suit, it was too much - that was out of my comfort zone."



Crago's fashion bravery in achieving a modern, yet comfortable, look has paid off. When he traveled to London a month ago in a suit that was progressive in both stripe and tailoring, he was greeted by a business associate with a genuine, "You're looking sharp." It felt good.

"The first time a man gets a compliment on how he looks, what generally happens is he's inspired to come back to the store," Kapelson said. "Once they get excited about it, they're more likely to try to keep (up) with what's current that's still within their comfort zone. Our job is to always try to push them to that next level. But again, baby steps."

So where do you start? Go through your wardrobe and take stock of what you own. Then go forth and shop.

"If you don't enjoy shopping for clothes, then don't go alone," advised Jay Calderin, director of creative marketing at Boston's School of Fashion Design. "Chances are there is someone in your life who is hoping that you'll ask for their help. No matter how much we try to convince ourselves that what we wear is not important, appearance goes a long way on the job, socially as well as in our own self-perception."

Fashion friendly

* Avoid pleated and cuffed pants. If you just try on a pair of flat-front pants without a cuff, you'll be amazed at how much taller and thinner you'll look.

* When you're trying on pants, your socks shouldn't be visible while standing. Have the bottom of your pant leg hit about midheel on your shoe, giving a nice break in the front.

* If you usually wear solid-colored, button-down shirts, try buying one with a subtle pattern or stripe. If you always wear stripes, pick a solid color that compliments your eyes. A little variation will go a long way.

* If you always wear a button-down collar, try a shirt without buttons.

* A sport coat is a great way to add a bit of style to your outfit. If you're nervous about adding a layer to your look, go with a solid black or tan. The neutral colors will ease you into it, as well as work with a host of wardrobe options.

* If you've worn the same black lace-up shoes for years, update your look with a slip-on loafer. You can get the same comfort with a little added style.

* When matching two patterns, one should dominate the other. If your shirt has a large pattern, then pick a tie or jacket with a small pattern. Or, if your tie has thick stripes, pick a solid-colored shirt or minimal pattern.



* Most men feel safe in only a couple of colors. Try to add more and more variation over time, working toward bold colors. When starting small, try picking a tie with a bold accent color that matches your pocket square. If you have a pale complexion or gray hair, steer clear of whites and yellows. They'll only make you look old and tired.

Source: Aaron Marino, Alpha M. Image Consulting, www.alphamimageconsulting.com.

Personality pleasers

* To give your uniform a little personality, a well-made belt and classic shoe - cap toe, monk strap and loafer - will speak to your sense of style. Don't skimp here because this is an area that should be considered an investment. Embrace quality craftsmanship from experts like Coach.

r A "cute tie" is an oxymoron. They're the measure of a man and should stand for quality and elegance. Never, ever, wear a novelty tie unless you're a standup comedian.

* You can stay within your color comfort zone by keeping a neutral palette as a base. Layering a solid-colored T-shirt (and not one that you got at a concert or won in a contest) under another shirt is a great way to experiment with color without being overwhelmed.

r Introduce details that speak to your passions in a subtle and understated way. Cuff links give you a great chance to display your personality without overdoing it.

r Many men have set patterns they purchase time and again because it's familiar and safe. Take stock in what you already own to reduce the chance of duplication, while thinking about coordinating pieces.

* Never shop alone if you're not a true shopper. You'll simply rush through important decisions. Set a fashion goal before heading out with an experienced shopper who can help you better appreciate the process and the results.

Sources: Jay Calderin, School of Fashion Design, www.schooloffashiondesign.org.

Men's must-have

Men, it turns out, have finally discovered designer jeans.

"The high-end jeans market is the hottest things right now," said Joel Kapelson, one of three brothers who owns Kaps Menswear, based in Andover. "Men are finally getting it. They don't have to look like farmers - dumpy in those ratty old jeans."



Yes, they're more expensive than the old chain brands, but the difference in appearance is worth it. What to look for this season? A flat-front, straight-legged pant. Nothing too fitted, but nothing too loose.

"The difference is in the washing, the different finishes, the details," said Kapelson's brother, Jon. "For lack of a better word, the hardware - the zipper is a different quality, the fit, wash, color. It gives men an option to express themselves, instead of just wearing that same old Gap or Levi."

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